Paris Fashion Week Opens Today: What to Watch in the First Days of the Spring/Summer 2027 Season

Paris Fashion Week opens today, September 28, with Belgian designerJulie Kegels at 14:30, and Maxhosa Africa, the South African label making its first appearance on the official show calendar, also shows on opening day. The women's Spring/Summer 2027 season runs through October 6, and its first three days include two of the most closely watched creative director debuts of the year.

Who Opens the Week

Kegels starts the runway schedule this afternoon. Maxhosa Africa, founded by designer Laduma Ngxokolo in 2010, joins the official calendar for the first time this season and counts Beyoncé and Michelle Obama among the people it has dressed. Two newcomers also appear on the presentation schedule: Fidan Novruzova, an Azerbaijani designer who was a semifinalist for the 2024 LVMH Prize, presents today, and Alexandra Golovanoff, whose Paris label of cashmere and ready to wear launched in 2016, follows tomorrow.

Tuesday, September 29: Margiela Returns to Paris

Maison Margiela is back on the Paris calendar on Tuesday. The house showed its previous collection in Shanghai in April, the first time it had presented outside Paris, which makes its return one of the season's most watched homecomings. Valentino, which showed in Rome last season, follows on October 4.

Wednesday, September 30: The Busiest Day So Far

Day three is the most crowded of the opening stretch. Drew Henry shows his first collection as artistic director of Courrèges at 10:30. The same day's lineup includes The Row, Balmain, Dries Van Noten, Stella McCartney, Acne Studios and Tom Ford. Kai Nesselrath follows on October 1 with his debut as design director at Carven.

Who Is Missing This Season

Several names will not show on the calendar. Rabanne is absent after parting ways with designer Julien Dossena in June, following 13 years at the house. Jacquemus is not on the September schedule because it presented its Spring 2027 collection in Corsica in June. Versace also sits this season out: Pieter Mulier joined as chief creative officer on July 1 and is due to show his first collection in early 2027.

Fashion Beyond the Runway

Two exhibitions run alongside the shows. The Palais Galliera opened "A Wardrobe of One's Own" on September 26, on view until February 14, 2027, and the Maison Européenne de la Photographie opens "Irving Penn and Fashion" on September 30, on view until January 17, 2027. The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode is also running an official showroom session at the Palais de Tokyo from September 30 to October 6, with a digital version available by invitation.

What Comes Next

Valentino returns on October 4, Sacai rejoins the calendar on October 5, and Louis Vuitton closes the week at 18:30 on October 6. For the full calendar, including the other returns and the week's remaining debuts, see our complete Spring/Summer 2027 schedule.

Sources: Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode; Fashionista; Complex; Luxury.it; Daily Front Row.

Photo by Michael Lee on Unsplash